Malawi 1: Mt. Mulanje

Venice Beach Backpackers
Bicycle taxis
Mulanje Massif
Top of Sapitwa
Mark and Shanu resting

October 14, 2009

On September 25 Mark and I got on the overnight bus to Lusaka and began the long journey to Malawi. We spent Saturday night in Lilongwe and woke up early Sunday morning to catch the express bus to Blantyre. Unfortunately while looking for the bus an overly enthusiastic chap showed us to a more inexpensive bus that promised to get us there in the same amount of time. It would leave at 8 am and take 4 hours. Unfortunately the bus did not leave until it was full (around 9:30) and after six hours of travel we were still nowhere near Blantyre and since the bus was close to empty we were put on to a different bus. We arrived in a suburb of Blantyre around 5 pm and caught another minibus to Mulanje. I soon learned that this was typical of public transport in Africa.

If you are looking for an authentic African public transport experience there are a few things you need to have in order to qualify:
o A live chicken
o A breastfeeding mother
o Street vendors at your window at every stop
o No less than 25 people in a 15 passenger van
o People getting in and out via the back window
o Must take twice as long as stated time

After two and half days of travel we were ready to climb Mt. Mulanje. Well almost ready. We headed over to Chitakale and stopped by People’s to stock up on food and water for the trek. After that we went to Info Mulanje and hired a guide/porter and planned out our route. We left one bag of stuff at the office and set off up the mountain with our guide Shanu carrying the other bag.

We walked by the tea plantations that surrounded the mountain and up over the rolling foothills. The next bit was quite steep but after about three hours we made it up to the plateau. The Mulanje Massif is comprised of a large plateau region that consists mainly of open prairies and patches of forests. Above this rise twenty majestic peaks the highest of which is Sapitwa, meaning “don’t go there” in the local language. At 3002 meters it is the highest point in Central Africa and we set out to reach the summit. We spent the next three hours trekking across the plateau to the Linchenya Hut. We cooked up some macaroni and cheese and were asleep by 8 pm.

The next morning we woke up early and were hiking by 7 am. The morning was fairly easy and offered some fantastic scenery. We reached the Tuchila Hut around 10:30 am. Originally the plan was to stop off for a half hour lunch break before climbing to the summit. However it started to rain and we were still at the hut at 1 pm. I was a bit concerned that my shoes were not good enough and that the rain may have made things too dangerous but I eventually convinced myself to climb up to at least the first ridge.

It was quite steep and at times I wondered how I would ever get back down but when we reached the top of the first ridge the second ridge didn’t seem very far away. The next bit was my favorite part of the climb, going over and under branches, between rocks and jumping from rock to rock. When we got to the top of the second ridge we could see the summit and I knew I couldn’t stop now. So it was down again, over rocks, through narrow gaps and up until we reached the summit. It was chilly at the top and the cloud cover prevented us from getting a good view but it still felt good to have gotten there. There was a plaque at the top of the summit in honor of a Brazilian man that had died attempting the climb without a guide. Many of the locals believe that the mountain is cursed and will not go near it.

The way down was tricky but we made it back just before dark. A group of 15 Germans had just arrived at the cabin and we settled in for the night. The cabins themselves are very well kept. There is a caretaker present at each that takes care of the cleaning and provides drinkable water and firewood. There are, however, no showers and the only toilets are long drops that don’t have any seats.

The next morning we were up early and started the four-hour hike down to the forestry station. My legs were sore and walking downhill all morning was tough my knees. I was also experiencing stomach cramps but we made it down by 11 am and paid the hut fees. We then wandered into the nearby village to wait for a minibus to take us back to Chitakale. The first one was full and instead of waiting for a second one we decided to take bicycle taxis, which allowed us to take in the breathtaking scenery around the massif.

After picking up the other bag and getting some pizza we got back in a minibus and headed toward Blantyre. We found a bus that said it was going to Monkey Bay and would be there by 6:30 that night. We grabbed a snack and I was going to use the bathroom but it was honestly the most disgusting thing I have ever seen. There were feces all over the floor and women were peeing out in the open by the sinks and the doorway. I got out of there as fast as possible, deciding that I would rather hold it.

The minibus arrived in Mangochi at 8 pm and told us that it was the last stop for the night. We were quite upset. We were used to them lying to us about how long it would take but never about the final destination. The bus driver redeemed himself a little by driving us around until we found a place to stay. He even stopped by his house and showed us his pet monkey. We ended up at the Holiday Inn (not quite US standards) and I took a much needed shower.

The next morning we went to Monkey Bay and checked into Venice Beach Backpackers. We were the only ones staying there and had the beach to ourselves. It was nice to relax after so much climbing and traveling. I even got to help some local girls fish with a mosquito net. We wandered into town later that night to check the ferry prices and get some dinner. It was dark by the time we headed back but it’s a very safe area and the locals were very helpful on pointing us in the right direction.

The next morning Mark was gone before I woke up. He had to get back to Livingstone to work so I would be on my own for the next week. For more about my trip to Malawi stay tuned for Malawi 2: The Lake.